$100 Big Brake Kit for the MK1 Fiesta

Everyone who owns a mk1 Fiesta eventually realizes that the front brakes suck. They are too small, the rotors warp easily, and they are thin and unvented. If you can actually find them, the logical thing to do is to source a set of big brakes off a Mk1 XR2 from BAT or the UK. They are engineered to take the beating of a go-fast Fiesta, and they bolt right up if you have larger wheels. But here's the rub, the hanger brackets for the front calipers are as rare as hen's teeth.  Parts suppliers in the UK don't have them, and I dont see them on eBay very often.

So what to do? Well, you could get a kit from Wilwood or Hi-spec from the UK via Burton power, £400-£500, have them shipped, £200, then buy some 15" wheels and tires, $800-$1000 plus shipping, $200...so for $2200 $2500 US, you can make the fiesta stop on a dime.

There is a slightly cheaper option in the states, Kustom Engineering has a kit also for 15" wheels, I think $699 plus shipping, plus wheel costs. So sub $2000.

...or you can do this.
1.) Buy a set of rotors for a 2000 ford focus from your local auto parts store. I paid $26 each.
2.) Buy or source a set of calipers with mounting hardware and brake pads and all the hardware for a 1987 BMW 325is. I found fully loaded calipers(calipers, brackets, pads, hardware) at Rockauto on closeout for $27 a corner. Shipping was only $11.
3.) Find a machine shop and have them mill the brackets so that they center on the rotors when mounted to the Stock Fiesta Hub. I have a guy that will do this for me, and will post cost and amount of the bracket he takes off so you know what to tell your machinist. My guess is the labor will cost me $50-$75.
4.) I haven't mounted these yet, but I think my stock lines will work, if not I'll get some braided stainless lines.

I found this buried in the archives of the US Fiesta enthusiasts group on yahoo groups. If you do own a fiesta, you really should join that group. It's such a helpful resource.

Ok so the parts were $106, plus 11 shipping and I already have 14" wheels, and I will need to pay to have the parts machined. So maybe it will cost $200 all-in. Still, pretty cheap for these massive, readily available parts.

Also, if you try this and they fail, you do it at your own risk and assume all liability. I am not an engineer, and make no claims that this is safe.

Revised power to weight ratio

I incorrectly calculated the power to weight by using the gross vehicle weight.  The curb weight of the fiesta is quite a bit less than that.  I found this spec online for a 1981 UK spec XR2 at an online site  http://www.carinf.com/en/55b046200.html .

So while these numbers are not wrong, the don't reflect the curb weight ratio.

Power to Weight Ratio

GVW
Stock - 63 HP/2690 lbs GVW= 1 HP per 42.7 LBS of Car
Rebuilt - 105 HP/2690 lb GVW  = 1 HP per 25.6 LB of car

Curb Weight Ratios
Stock 63 HP/1766 CW = 1 HP / 28.0 lbs
Rebuilt 105 HP/1766 CW = 1 HP / 16.8 lbs

Fiesta 1.6L Kent Engine Rebuild on the Dyno

The Stock US Fiesta specs out at 63HP @5300 RPM.   With a Formula Ford Intake & Carb, we achieved 110BHP.  Sweet!  lets see what she makes with the carb/manifold that will live in the car.

When we put the Weber 32/34 DFT 9A on with an XR2 intake manifold, we achieved 101 BHP.   However, the dyno numbers showed rich fuel usage numbers.  We drilled out the air intakes on the primary and secondary jets to .170, the Air/Fuel mixture was still running rich...Hmmm.

This run on the dyno had a couple issues.  One, the fuel return line was not hooked up to a meter to subtract the fuel going back to the tank, so we are going back to the stock 155/160 air jet dimensions, and trying it again.  Also we did not have the cold air box hooked up in the dyno room, so we loose power there.  We should get a few HP back with the air box attached...I was told it could get back close to the 110HP mark, but I will assume 1/2 that gain for this power increase calculation.

Now when I took the engine in, and Curtis got it disassembled, he noticed their was a bushing issue that stopped the rotor from fully advancing the timing.  That made perfect sense since it felt like it had about 40 BHP and gave up pretty early.

When we started to examine everything, we discovered .040 of taper in the cylinder walls...so as long as it is apart, lets make it right, ohhh, and add some high compression pistons...and balance everything....and lighten the flywheel... screw it, lets just rebuild it. And so we did.

I cannot wait to get this bolted back into the car and give it a proper thrashing.

105BHP/63BHP = 66% power increase.

Power to Weight Ratio
Stock 63 HP/1766 CW = 1 HP / 28.0 lbs
Rebuilt 105 HP/1766 CW = 1 HP / 16.8 lbs

Engine on the Dyno

What started off as a valve job on a recently aquired ported and pollished formula ford head, turned into a full rebuild with high compression pistons, a GT cam, a new fuel pump, NOS Weber 32/34 DFT 9A (wrong bolt pattern), and a great engine builder in Platte City, Mo.

Farley engines has specialized in building Formula Ford Race engines for years, and was only a stones throw up the road.  What a great resource to have so close.  The Fiesta engine -- 1.6L Kent -- is basically the same engine as a Formula Ford engine and is highly tunable. Farley Engine was able to do every thing I needed done.

So here is where we are at on the dyno

Set up 1: Loaner formula ford intake manifold and carb.  I'll post the readouts when I get them. The Kent was fed a diet of 100+ octane Aviation gas during these tests...they do not have that at the Quick Trip.

110 BHP @ 6800 RPM....

Set up 2: XR2 Intake Manifold, 32/34 DFT 9A ;170 Air Jets

101 BHP @ 6800 RPM, no cold air intake

Dropping the engine

Last Saturday a friend and I tore into dropping the engine. I've read on the us fiesta enthusiasts yahoo group that it takes between 1-4 hours to perform. I can assure you it is a 6-8 hour process if you have never done it and don't have access to a lift. I think that because all the stock add on equipment is in place, also made more time consuming. The thermactor, assorted plumbing, even the clutch cable caused roadblocks and delays.The plan is to install a livelier cam shaft, check for gasket and seal leaks, and pop on the formula ford head, xr2 intake manifold and a new exhaust.

Front and rear swaybars

Picked up a pair of NOS turn six sway bars for the fiesta. I mounted the front sway bar. It bolts onto the front tie bars with 4 hd bushings. I'll have to wait until I put on the exhaust to mount the rear sway bar. The tail pipe gets in the way... It's straight out the back of the muffler.

Rear Bearings and a hiccup

As expected the Rotunda tools turned an impossible job into one that took no time at all.  The first set of rear bearings took me about 30 mins to get it all installed and greased, and sealed up.  Mainly because I was fumbling around with the tools and how best to hold the drum.  The second drum took a grand total of 5 minutes to completely install.

Mounting the first bearing cup

Forgot to add the outside bearing cup.
They can both be installed together

Cups Installed

On to second Drum, All tools and bearing cups,
and seal laid out prior to  installation

Seal on Rotunda Seal Replacer Tool 1109-B

Seal driven home

Greased and Ready to install...another day

Both Drums complete and ready for installation

The right front suspension was acting a little wonkey, so I tore into replacing the lower control arm bushing and lower ball joint on the right front wheel.  I got everything disassembled fairly quickly but I did not have a hydraulic press to coax the bushing in and out.  So I finally got the right combination of Rotunda tools, dish soap, a couple extra sockets and a bench vise (which I had to mount prior to use).

To install the new Moog lower control arm bushing, I used the bench vise to press the Moog bushing into the control arm until it bottomed out, then I added Rotunda 3069-A4 into the bushing and Rotunda 3069-A3 under the control arm and turned the vise to fully seat the bushing.

I road tested my work and it made a huge difference in handling.  The ball joint was starting to fail, so the combination of new ball joint and control arm bushing really sorted out the right side.

I took off the left wheel, and the rotor is all discolored...and the bearing sounds like there is gravel in it...must have cooked my left wheel bearings.  They are now on order, and I'll do the ball joint, bushing and left side bearings next weekend.