I incorrectly calculated the power to weight by using the gross vehicle weight. The curb weight of the fiesta is quite a bit less than that. I found this spec online for a 1981 UK spec XR2 at an online site http://www.carinf.com/en/55b046200.html .
So while these numbers are not wrong, the don't reflect the curb weight ratio.
Power to Weight Ratio
GVW
Stock - 63 HP/2690 lbs GVW= 1 HP per 42.7 LBS of Car
Rebuilt - 105 HP/2690 lb GVW = 1 HP per 25.6 LB of car
Curb Weight Ratios
Stock 63 HP/1766 CW = 1 HP / 28.0 lbs
Rebuilt 105 HP/1766 CW = 1 HP / 16.8 lbs
Fiesta Rescue is dedicated to restoring my US Specification 1980 Ford Fiesta. Mk1 Fiesta parts are getting rare or unavailable so I use Formula Ford Racing Parts, Custom Fabrication and Punk Rock ethos to put Betty the Fiesta back together.
Sunday, July 22, 2012
Saturday, July 21, 2012
Fiesta 1.6L Kent Engine Rebuild on the Dyno
The Stock US Fiesta specs out at 63HP @5300 RPM. With a Formula Ford Intake & Carb, we achieved 110BHP. Sweet! lets see what she makes with the carb/manifold that will live in the car.
When we put the Weber 32/34 DFT 9A on with an XR2 intake manifold, we achieved 101 BHP. However, the dyno numbers showed rich fuel usage numbers. We drilled out the air intakes on the primary and secondary jets to .170, the Air/Fuel mixture was still running rich...Hmmm.
This run on the dyno had a couple issues. One, the fuel return line was not hooked up to a meter to subtract the fuel going back to the tank, so we are going back to the stock 155/160 air jet dimensions, and trying it again. Also we did not have the cold air box hooked up in the dyno room, so we loose power there. We should get a few HP back with the air box attached...I was told it could get back close to the 110HP mark, but I will assume 1/2 that gain for this power increase calculation.
Now when I took the engine in, and Curtis got it disassembled, he noticed their was a bushing issue that stopped the rotor from fully advancing the timing. That made perfect sense since it felt like it had about 40 BHP and gave up pretty early.
When we started to examine everything, we discovered .040 of taper in the cylinder walls...so as long as it is apart, lets make it right, ohhh, and add some high compression pistons...and balance everything....and lighten the flywheel... screw it, lets just rebuild it. And so we did.
I cannot wait to get this bolted back into the car and give it a proper thrashing.
105BHP/63BHP = 66% power increase.
Power to Weight Ratio
Stock 63 HP/1766 CW = 1 HP / 28.0 lbs
Rebuilt 105 HP/1766 CW = 1 HP / 16.8 lbs
Friday, July 20, 2012
Engine on the Dyno
What started off as a valve job on a recently aquired ported and pollished formula ford head, turned into a full rebuild with high compression pistons, a GT cam, a new fuel pump, NOS Weber 32/34 DFT 9A (wrong bolt pattern), and a great engine builder in Platte City, Mo.
Farley engines has specialized in building Formula Ford Race engines for years, and was only a stones throw up the road. What a great resource to have so close. The Fiesta engine -- 1.6L Kent -- is basically the same engine as a Formula Ford engine and is highly tunable. Farley Engine was able to do every thing I needed done.
So here is where we are at on the dyno
Set up 1: Loaner formula ford intake manifold and carb. I'll post the readouts when I get them. The Kent was fed a diet of 100+ octane Aviation gas during these tests...they do not have that at the Quick Trip.
110 BHP @ 6800 RPM....
Set up 2: XR2 Intake Manifold, 32/34 DFT 9A ;170 Air Jets
101 BHP @ 6800 RPM, no cold air intake
Tuesday, May 1, 2012
Dropping the engine
Last Saturday a friend and I tore into dropping the engine. I've read on the us fiesta enthusiasts yahoo group that it takes between 1-4 hours to perform. I can assure you it is a 6-8 hour process if you have never done it and don't have access to a lift. I think that because all the stock add on equipment is in place, also made more time consuming. The thermactor, assorted plumbing, even the clutch cable caused roadblocks and delays.The plan is to install a livelier cam shaft, check for gasket and seal leaks, and pop on the formula ford head, xr2 intake manifold and a new exhaust.
Friday, March 23, 2012
Front and rear swaybars
Picked up a pair of NOS turn six sway bars for the fiesta. I mounted the front sway bar. It bolts onto the front tie bars with 4 hd bushings. I'll have to wait until I put on the exhaust to mount the rear sway bar. The tail pipe gets in the way... It's straight out the back of the muffler.
Sunday, March 11, 2012
Rear Bearings and a hiccup
As expected the Rotunda tools turned an impossible job into one that took no time at all. The first set of rear bearings took me about 30 mins to get it all installed and greased, and sealed up. Mainly because I was fumbling around with the tools and how best to hold the drum. The second drum took a grand total of 5 minutes to completely install.
The right front suspension was acting a little wonkey, so I tore into replacing the lower control arm bushing and lower ball joint on the right front wheel. I got everything disassembled fairly quickly but I did not have a hydraulic press to coax the bushing in and out. So I finally got the right combination of Rotunda tools, dish soap, a couple extra sockets and a bench vise (which I had to mount prior to use).
To install the new Moog lower control arm bushing, I used the bench vise to press the Moog bushing into the control arm until it bottomed out, then I added Rotunda 3069-A4 into the bushing and Rotunda 3069-A3 under the control arm and turned the vise to fully seat the bushing.
I road tested my work and it made a huge difference in handling. The ball joint was starting to fail, so the combination of new ball joint and control arm bushing really sorted out the right side.
I took off the left wheel, and the rotor is all discolored...and the bearing sounds like there is gravel in it...must have cooked my left wheel bearings. They are now on order, and I'll do the ball joint, bushing and left side bearings next weekend.
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Mounting the first bearing cup |
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Forgot to add the outside bearing cup. They can both be installed together |
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Cups Installed |
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On to second Drum, All tools and bearing cups, and seal laid out prior to installation |
Seal on Rotunda Seal Replacer Tool 1109-B |
Seal driven home |
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Greased and Ready to install...another day |
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Both Drums complete and ready for installation |
The right front suspension was acting a little wonkey, so I tore into replacing the lower control arm bushing and lower ball joint on the right front wheel. I got everything disassembled fairly quickly but I did not have a hydraulic press to coax the bushing in and out. So I finally got the right combination of Rotunda tools, dish soap, a couple extra sockets and a bench vise (which I had to mount prior to use).
To install the new Moog lower control arm bushing, I used the bench vise to press the Moog bushing into the control arm until it bottomed out, then I added Rotunda 3069-A4 into the bushing and Rotunda 3069-A3 under the control arm and turned the vise to fully seat the bushing.
I road tested my work and it made a huge difference in handling. The ball joint was starting to fail, so the combination of new ball joint and control arm bushing really sorted out the right side.
I took off the left wheel, and the rotor is all discolored...and the bearing sounds like there is gravel in it...must have cooked my left wheel bearings. They are now on order, and I'll do the ball joint, bushing and left side bearings next weekend.
Friday, March 9, 2012
The right tool for the job
When the majority of peoples that inhabited this earth were dependent on the oral transfer of knowledge, nuggets of knowledge were created as a rhyme or saying to make them easy to remember and pass along to others. While "Use the right tool for the job" doesn't rhyme, it holds very true. So I followed that advise and procured a set of 1977 fiesta specialty tools made by Rotunda. These pop up on ebay all the time. The big set on the left is all about transmission work and engine work, while the set on the right is all about suspension, steering, bearings, bushings, seals and gas tank sending units. It did not cost a great deal, but I will pay for the set in time and money saved. In fact one job I couldn't do last spring was installing the new bearings in the new rear brake drums. I now have the right tools to get it done properly and quickly. Also up on the docket is installing all new bushings in the front and rear suspension...need to get those ordered. I can't wait to tear into this on sunday.
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